Baum und Pferdgarten – Backstage
We went backstage at the Baum und Pferdgarten show in Copenhagen. Sine Ginsborg, key makeup artist for L’Oréal Paris, talks about the half lipstick and the best foundation on a budget.
How would you describe the look you created for the Baum und Pferdgarten AW18 show?
I tried to base it on the premise of the collection – a fine and subtle fusion of masculine and feminine codes. The designers wanted to mix a contemporary young look with the 1980s ‘working girl’ and that balance has been beautifully achieved.
Where do you find inspiration?
I have actually been very loyal to the collection. Because they always use many colours and prints, I like to do a makeup that works with a wide colour palette. When the clothes are loud, the makeup needs to whisper. It has to make room for a personal style and the untamed dimensions of the clothes.
What kind of references did you use?
I refer to the collection and give it room. I followed its development and premises. The special thing about the look is that there is only one colour on the upper lip. This is a great reference to the fashion photography of the 1980s where you would often see shadows on the upper lip which made it look bigger. I mixed two lipsticks – one with a grey and one with a red undertone. This gives the colour an organic feel – it looks almost like the darkest leaves on autumn trees. And because colour is only worn on the top lip, it creates an optical illusion: the dark shadow works to contour the lip.
Do you have a special tip for recreating the look at home?
This look is all about the skin. It has to be really moisturised and then perfected with the True Match foundation. I have also added a slightly oily-looking eyelid instead of eyeshadow and teased out a bit of cheekbone with some very light contouring. It is often the small details that many people forget about that produce the best results.
Is there any way of toning the look up or down?
This lip is best suited to the catwalk. For everyday use, I would add colour to both lips – which looks beautiful and strong. For the catwalk look, the upper lip works as a reference to the 1980s ‘working girl’ while the lower lip represents the youth of today.
What is the key product used in the look?
True Match foundation and the strong Color Riche lipsticks. I mixed 346 Scarlet Silhouette and 634 Grigo Perfecto to achieve this particular colour.
Photo Mikkel Tjellesen & Liv Winther